<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" ><channel><title>M3 Building Technology</title> <atom:link href="http://www.m3bt.com/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.m3bt.com</link> <description></description> <lastBuildDate>Mon, 11 Mar 2013 11:58:17 +0000</lastBuildDate> <language>en-US</language> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <item><title>THERMAL CLAY BLOCKS</title><link>http://www.m3bt.com/thermal-clay-blocks/thermal-clay-blocks/</link> <comments>http://www.m3bt.com/thermal-clay-blocks/thermal-clay-blocks/#comments</comments> <pubDate>Tue, 05 Feb 2013 16:07:00 +0000</pubDate> <dc:creator>Tony</dc:creator> <category><![CDATA[Thermal Clay Blocks]]></category> <category><![CDATA[bricks]]></category> <category><![CDATA[insulated walls]]></category> <category><![CDATA[termoarcillas]]></category> <category><![CDATA[thermal clay blocks]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.m3bt.com/?p=1215</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="139" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dimensions-SM-150x139.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="Termoarcillas" /></p><p>Masonry clay block construction is becoming widely adopted in many European countries and is likely to revolutionize the construction industry.</p><p>Precision engineered, thermal clay blocks are vertically perforated walling units made from clay and 20% recycled materials.  Exceptionally fast to use, they provide a virtually dry construction combined with high strength and thermal efficiency.  Reducing build time by more than half, thermal blocks provide an efficient alternative to brick/block cavity wall construction.</p><p> Absorbing natural energy from the sun as well as heat that originates in the house, clay blocks later release the absorbed heat back into the room air.  The absorption and release of heat, keeps temperature variations balanced, thus saving energy.  For instance, during winter your house remains comfortably warm, whilst in the summer staying pleasantly cool, keeping heating costs minimal.  Additionally, wall surfaces remain dry in every season ensuring comfortable room climates are achieved.</p><p>Using the clay block system, there is also reduced material consumption enabling builders and construction professionals to achieve maximum build volume for minimum material use.  Builders can create accurate, clean and homogenous walls faster with shorter construction times.</p><a href="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd.jpg"><img src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="268" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1216" /></a><p>Among additional benefits are faster availability for finishing trades gained from 95% less water usage: as the blocks feature unique interlocking edges giving exceptional rigidity, no vertical jointing is necessary: less repetitive strain gives heightened construction safety, reduced dermatological risk and thermal and acoustical efficiency.</p><a href="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd-4.jpg"><img src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd-4.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="184" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1217" /></a><p>Where externally exposed, the blocks are designed to receive a typical render or a proprietary cladding system, functional rather than aesthetic.  Internally plasters, or plasterboard over an initial parge coat, are normally used to provide a finish and the primary air barrier.<p><strong>In environmental terms, clay blocks construction provides for a healthy living habitat, energy savings and acoustical benefits.</strong><p>Using thermal clay blocks makes it possible to plan, build and live according to environmental and long term economic principles. </strong><p>Consequently the client benefits from the building being completed sooner whilst the builder sees a quicker return on investment,  and is able to complete more projects in a given period, ensuring higher efficiency with better control on time and costs, in addition to fewer errors and a cleaner, more pleasant site.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="139" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dimensions-SM-150x139.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="Termoarcillas" /></p><p>Masonry clay block construction is becoming widely adopted in many European countries and is likely to revolutionize the construction industry.</p><p>Precision engineered, thermal clay blocks are vertically perforated walling units made from clay and 20% recycled materials.  Exceptionally fast to use, they provide a virtually dry construction combined with high strength and thermal efficiency.  Reducing build time by more than half, thermal blocks provide an efficient alternative to brick/block cavity wall construction.</p><p> Absorbing natural energy from the sun as well as heat that originates in the house, clay blocks later release the absorbed heat back into the room air.  The absorption and release of heat, keeps temperature variations balanced, thus saving energy.  For instance, during winter your house remains comfortably warm, whilst in the summer staying pleasantly cool, keeping heating costs minimal.  Additionally, wall surfaces remain dry in every season ensuring comfortable room climates are achieved.</p><p>Using the clay block system, there is also reduced material consumption enabling builders and construction professionals to achieve maximum build volume for minimum material use.  Builders can create accurate, clean and homogenous walls faster with shorter construction times.</p><a href="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd.jpg"><img src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="268" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1216" /></a><p>Among additional benefits are faster availability for finishing trades gained from 95% less water usage: as the blocks feature unique interlocking edges giving exceptional rigidity, no vertical jointing is necessary: less repetitive strain gives heightened construction safety, reduced dermatological risk and thermal and acoustical efficiency.</p><a href="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd-4.jpg"><img src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/thermal-clay-block-dd-4.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="184" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1217" /></a><p>Where externally exposed, the blocks are designed to receive a typical render or a proprietary cladding system, functional rather than aesthetic.  Internally plasters, or plasterboard over an initial parge coat, are normally used to provide a finish and the primary air barrier.<p><strong>In environmental terms, clay blocks construction provides for a healthy living habitat, energy savings and acoustical benefits.</strong><p>Using thermal clay blocks makes it possible to plan, build and live according to environmental and long term economic principles. </strong><p>Consequently the client benefits from the building being completed sooner whilst the builder sees a quicker return on investment,  and is able to complete more projects in a given period, ensuring higher efficiency with better control on time and costs, in addition to fewer errors and a cleaner, more pleasant site.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>http://www.m3bt.com/thermal-clay-blocks/thermal-clay-blocks/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item><title>Land Drainage or French Drain</title><link>http://www.m3bt.com/land-drains/land-drainage-or-french-drain/</link> <comments>http://www.m3bt.com/land-drains/land-drainage-or-french-drain/#comments</comments> <pubDate>Wed, 03 Oct 2012 11:04:17 +0000</pubDate> <dc:creator>Tony</dc:creator> <category><![CDATA[French Drains]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Land Drains]]></category> <category><![CDATA[French Drain]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Land Drain]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Storm Drain]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.m3bt.com/?p=1214</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/100_4185-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="100_4185" /></p><strong>WHAT IS A FRENCH DRAIN?</strong><p>It is a well known scientific fact that water always flows downhill and by the easiest possible route!  A slightly sloped trench filled with round gravel and perforated pipe used to divert underground water away from your house is the basic concept of a French drain. This is a common drainage system primarily used to prevent ground water from penetrating or damaging building foundations by providing an easy channel allowing water to flow.</p><p>The name – French Drain – has nothing to do with France! It was designed and promoted by Henry French, an American judge and farmer from Concord, Massachusetts in his book in 1859 promoting farm drainage.   French´s drains were made with clay tiles, but nowadays, 4-inch diameter plastic pipes are used.   If you live on a slope and have a persistently wet basement or soggy lawn, a French drain could be the solution.</p><p>Surface and subsurface water runs through the spaces between the round gravel and perforated pipe at the bottom of the trench which should be sloped.  Water can then travel freely through the pipe, emptying a safe distance from the house.</p><p>A shallow French drain, or curtain drain, is useful if there is a problem with surface water—a soggy lawn for example, or a driveway that continually has water rushing across it.  This type of drain need not be very deep, just sufficient to divert water.You may need a deep French drain if the shallow drain doesn´t keep water out of your basement.  This is also called a footing drain and runs round the perimeter of the house at footing level.  It is easy to install during house construction – but obviously difficult and more expensive to add later.</p><p>French drains depend on gravity, so a flat property may need to pipe collected water to a basin in the basement where a sump pump can lift it and send it to the storm drain system.You can also build an interior French drain if you can´t keep water out of your basement, to intercept the water where it comes in.   Cut a channel around the perimeter of the basement floor, chip out the concrete and install perforated pipe all the way round.  Solid pipe then carries the water to a collection tank sunk into the floor and a pump sends it out to the yard or storm drain.Incorporate a French drain behind the first course of stones or blocks if you are building a retaining wall on a hillside.    Otherwise the wall could be undermined or even tipped by water moving down the hill or building up behind the wall.  As clogging with silt must be avoided, drape landscape cloth across the base or footing and up the slope before adding the pipe and drain gravel.  Nearing the top of the wall, fold the cloth over the top of the gravel and cover with several inches of soil.</p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/100_4185-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="100_4185" /></p><strong>WHAT IS A FRENCH DRAIN?</strong><p>It is a well known scientific fact that water always flows downhill and by the easiest possible route!  A slightly sloped trench filled with round gravel and perforated pipe used to divert underground water away from your house is the basic concept of a French drain. This is a common drainage system primarily used to prevent ground water from penetrating or damaging building foundations by providing an easy channel allowing water to flow.</p><p>The name – French Drain – has nothing to do with France! It was designed and promoted by Henry French, an American judge and farmer from Concord, Massachusetts in his book in 1859 promoting farm drainage.   French´s drains were made with clay tiles, but nowadays, 4-inch diameter plastic pipes are used.   If you live on a slope and have a persistently wet basement or soggy lawn, a French drain could be the solution.</p><p>Surface and subsurface water runs through the spaces between the round gravel and perforated pipe at the bottom of the trench which should be sloped.  Water can then travel freely through the pipe, emptying a safe distance from the house.</p><p>A shallow French drain, or curtain drain, is useful if there is a problem with surface water—a soggy lawn for example, or a driveway that continually has water rushing across it.  This type of drain need not be very deep, just sufficient to divert water.You may need a deep French drain if the shallow drain doesn´t keep water out of your basement.  This is also called a footing drain and runs round the perimeter of the house at footing level.  It is easy to install during house construction – but obviously difficult and more expensive to add later.</p><p>French drains depend on gravity, so a flat property may need to pipe collected water to a basin in the basement where a sump pump can lift it and send it to the storm drain system.You can also build an interior French drain if you can´t keep water out of your basement, to intercept the water where it comes in.   Cut a channel around the perimeter of the basement floor, chip out the concrete and install perforated pipe all the way round.  Solid pipe then carries the water to a collection tank sunk into the floor and a pump sends it out to the yard or storm drain.Incorporate a French drain behind the first course of stones or blocks if you are building a retaining wall on a hillside.    Otherwise the wall could be undermined or even tipped by water moving down the hill or building up behind the wall.  As clogging with silt must be avoided, drape landscape cloth across the base or footing and up the slope before adding the pipe and drain gravel.  Nearing the top of the wall, fold the cloth over the top of the gravel and cover with several inches of soil.</p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>http://www.m3bt.com/land-drains/land-drainage-or-french-drain/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item><title>What to do before the expiry of your ´Decenal´ guarantee.</title><link>http://www.m3bt.com/decinal-insurance/what-to-do-before-the-expiry-of-your-%c2%b4decenal%c2%b4-guarantee/</link> <comments>http://www.m3bt.com/decinal-insurance/what-to-do-before-the-expiry-of-your-%c2%b4decenal%c2%b4-guarantee/#comments</comments> <pubDate>Wed, 01 Feb 2012 17:37:35 +0000</pubDate> <dc:creator>Tony</dc:creator> <category><![CDATA[Decinal Insurance]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.m3bt.com/?p=983</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Brocken-House-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="Decinal Insurance Failing House" /></p><p>May 2000 required a ´builders´guarantee´ on all newbuild properties to be insured via a ´Decenal´ insurance policy.  It is important to note that the first guarantees are now in the process of expiring. So we urge people to act now!</p><p>If you have any cracking at all in your property, it's important that this is assessed, and if appropriate reported to the your decenal insurers and architect prior to the expiry of your decenal guarantee.</p><p>If you have any concerns as to the condition of your property, it is important that you seek a professional opinion.  What might look like just minor cracks could be the initial signs of a more serious problem, for instance subsidence.  You will have no claim later against the decenal insurers if you do not report this to them prior to the expiry date of the guarantee.</p><p>Court action is often required to get results from decenal insurers who are notoriously difficult to claim against and both existing owners and home buyers should be aware of this.  Even when the property is under guarantee, it is very important to have a buyer´s structural survey even if some developers and estate agents state it is not necessary.</p><p>Mark Paddon is a British Building Surveyor and Spanish registered Technical Architect based in Spain for 9 years. Mark has contributed to a number of Spanish property books and consulted for Channel 4’s ‘Selling houses abroad’</p><p>By Mark Paddon BSc Hons Building Surveying. MCIOB.CAAT T: 962807247 M: 653733066 (Initial phone advice is free). Free 15page  property buyer’s guide and advice available via e-mail request to mrmpaddon@hotmail.com website -<a href="http://www.surveysspain.com" title="Surveys Spain" target="_blank">www.surveysspain.com</a></p>]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Brocken-House-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="Decinal Insurance Failing House" /></p><p>May 2000 required a ´builders´guarantee´ on all newbuild properties to be insured via a ´Decenal´ insurance policy.  It is important to note that the first guarantees are now in the process of expiring. So we urge people to act now!</p><p>If you have any cracking at all in your property, it's important that this is assessed, and if appropriate reported to the your decenal insurers and architect prior to the expiry of your decenal guarantee.</p><p>If you have any concerns as to the condition of your property, it is important that you seek a professional opinion.  What might look like just minor cracks could be the initial signs of a more serious problem, for instance subsidence.  You will have no claim later against the decenal insurers if you do not report this to them prior to the expiry date of the guarantee.</p><p>Court action is often required to get results from decenal insurers who are notoriously difficult to claim against and both existing owners and home buyers should be aware of this.  Even when the property is under guarantee, it is very important to have a buyer´s structural survey even if some developers and estate agents state it is not necessary.</p><p>Mark Paddon is a British Building Surveyor and Spanish registered Technical Architect based in Spain for 9 years. Mark has contributed to a number of Spanish property books and consulted for Channel 4’s ‘Selling houses abroad’</p><p>By Mark Paddon BSc Hons Building Surveying. MCIOB.CAAT T: 962807247 M: 653733066 (Initial phone advice is free). Free 15page  property buyer’s guide and advice available via e-mail request to mrmpaddon@hotmail.com website -<a href="http://www.surveysspain.com" title="Surveys Spain" target="_blank">www.surveysspain.com</a></p>]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>http://www.m3bt.com/decinal-insurance/what-to-do-before-the-expiry-of-your-%c2%b4decenal%c2%b4-guarantee/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> <item><title>Damp Problems</title><link>http://www.m3bt.com/damp/buying-an-old-townhous/</link> <comments>http://www.m3bt.com/damp/buying-an-old-townhous/#comments</comments> <pubDate>Tue, 20 Dec 2011 11:19:36 +0000</pubDate> <dc:creator>Tony</dc:creator> <category><![CDATA[Damp]]></category> <category><![CDATA[dry rot]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Rising Damp]]></category> <category><![CDATA[wood rot]]></category> <category><![CDATA[Wood Worm]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.m3bt.com/?p=979</guid> <description><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/P31201211-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="Traditional Townhouse reform in Lorcha" /></p><p>Without a doubt a traditional town house would offer character, ample space and often a cheaper price tag. However, be aware that along with the lower price can come maintenance issues like damp or insect infestation which will make for a costly renovation. Be very careful to ensure that what looks good on the outside is not just tarted-up and hiding a multitude of problems.</p><p>You must look for clues like if ceiling beams have been covered over or there are small holes in the wood. If the exposed wood is soft and pliable, what is in the walls will be far worse. Note that painting over the surface of the beams is not a valid solution and won’t stop the attack. Take a look at wood window frames and doors for further evidence of wood worm paying special attention to any wooden load bearing lintels.</p><p>In an older property often the roof will not have been repaired in years and older building methods generally were poor allowing water to get in is a common fault. Equally drainage and guttering on the outside of the property could very well be inviting water into the surrounding ground which will manifest as rising damp.</p><p>In short get the property checked out by a buildings surveyor BEFORE you make an offer so that you are fully aware what you are in for. Take the report to a qualified builder and get a quote for the work and then offer accordingly. You never know, it still could be the bargain you are looking for!</p> ]]></description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.m3bt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/P31201211-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-150x150 wp-post-image" alt="Traditional Townhouse reform in Lorcha" /></p><p>Without a doubt a traditional town house would offer character, ample space and often a cheaper price tag. However, be aware that along with the lower price can come maintenance issues like damp or insect infestation which will make for a costly renovation. Be very careful to ensure that what looks good on the outside is not just tarted-up and hiding a multitude of problems.</p><p>You must look for clues like if ceiling beams have been covered over or there are small holes in the wood. If the exposed wood is soft and pliable, what is in the walls will be far worse. Note that painting over the surface of the beams is not a valid solution and won’t stop the attack. Take a look at wood window frames and doors for further evidence of wood worm paying special attention to any wooden load bearing lintels.</p><p>In an older property often the roof will not have been repaired in years and older building methods generally were poor allowing water to get in is a common fault. Equally drainage and guttering on the outside of the property could very well be inviting water into the surrounding ground which will manifest as rising damp.</p><p>In short get the property checked out by a buildings surveyor BEFORE you make an offer so that you are fully aware what you are in for. Take the report to a qualified builder and get a quote for the work and then offer accordingly. You never know, it still could be the bargain you are looking for!</p> ]]></content:encoded> <wfw:commentRss>http://www.m3bt.com/damp/buying-an-old-townhous/feed/</wfw:commentRss> <slash:comments>0</slash:comments> </item> </channel> </rss>
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